In article EThMi.274464$fJ5.109835@pd7urf1no,
"jim wilson" wrote:

True, of course. I spoke only of the amount of light passed by the lens
aperature without reference to how long that light is allowed to hit the
film or sensor. Both settings, as you say, make up "exposure". If the
correct exposure for a photo is 1/125 at F16, it doesn't matter whether the
lens is 50 mm or 1000 mm, set both to F16 and the exposure is correct-but
don't hand hold the 1000 mm lens at that slow a speed. 8)
jim

That's right, Jim. My foggy brain is clearing up now - the 1/focal
length rule refers to the longest exposure you can use without a camera
support.

Dave

jim wilson wrote:
"Dave Moorman" wrote in message
]...

In article MY1Mi.31054$x%6.30938@pd7urf2no,
"jim wilson" wrote:


"Dave Moorman" wrote in message
]...

In article
,
Grumpy AuContraire wrote:


The F16 rule is ASA speed equal shutter speed @ F16 in bright
daylight.
Experience dictates variables from that point. Cloud cuts off the sun,
drop to F8 etc.

Is the other part of that rule of thumb that you set the exposure time
for 1/the lens length? I.e., if you're using a 75mm lens, set the
exposure time 1/75 (or as close as you can get).

Sorry I never heard that one-the focal length by itself has nothing to do
with exposure, only the lens aperature. F16 on any lens passes the same
amount of light.
jim

Yes, but no. F/16 with the shutter open for 1/50th of a second passes
five times the light of F/16 with shutter open for 1/250th of a second.
If you're going to avoid over- or under-exposure, you have to set both
the aperture and the exposure time to the right settings.

Dave

True, of course. I spoke only of the amount of light passed by the lens
aperature without reference to how long that light is allowed to hit the
film or sensor. Both settings, as you say, make up "exposure". If the
correct exposure for a photo is 1/125 at F16, it doesn't matter whether the
lens is 50 mm or 1000 mm, set both to F16 and the exposure is correct-but
don't hand hold the 1000 mm lens at that slow a speed. 8)
jim



Some of the image stabilizers on digital cameras are pretty good.

Here is a 12x zoom shot of a boid shot with a Panasonic FZ10 hand held.

JT

(You need about a half dozen of them boids to have a meal though...)

OMG!
It's a Dinosaur!
I bet this was photoshoped!
Dinosaurs went extinct. Never forget!...

"Grumpy AuContraire" wrote in message
...


jim wilson wrote:
"Dave Moorman" wrote in message
]...

In article MY1Mi.31054$x%6.30938@pd7urf2no,
"jim wilson" wrote:


"Dave Moorman" wrote in message
]...

In article
,
Grumpy AuContraire wrote:


The F16 rule is ASA speed equal shutter speed @ F16 in bright
daylight.
Experience dictates variables from that point. Cloud cuts off the sun,
drop to F8 etc.

Is the other part of that rule of thumb that you set the exposure time
for 1/the lens length? I.e., if you're using a 75mm lens, set the
exposure time 1/75 (or as close as you can get).

Sorry I never heard that one-the focal length by itself has nothing to
do
with exposure, only the lens aperature. F16 on any lens passes the same
amount of light.
jim

Yes, but no. F/16 with the shutter open for 1/50th of a second passes
five times the light of F/16 with shutter open for 1/250th of a second.
If you're going to avoid over- or under-exposure, you have to set both
the aperture and the exposure time to the right settings.

Dave

True, of course. I spoke only of the amount of light passed by the lens
aperature without reference to how long that light is allowed to hit the
film or sensor. Both settings, as you say, make up "exposure". If the
correct exposure for a photo is 1/125 at F16, it doesn't matter whether
the
lens is 50 mm or 1000 mm, set both to F16 and the exposure is correct-but
don't hand hold the 1000 mm lens at that slow a speed. 8)
jim



Some of the image stabilizers on digital cameras are pretty good.

Here is a 12x zoom shot of a boid shot with a Panasonic FZ10 hand held.

JT

(You need about a half dozen of them boids to have a meal though...)

In article
,
Grumpy AuContraire wrote:

Very nice, Grumpy.

Some of the image stabilizers on digital cameras are pretty good.

Here is a 12x zoom shot of a boid shot with a Panasonic FZ10 hand held.

JT

(You need about a half dozen of them boids to have a meal though...)

Very nice detail...
Babs

"Grumpy AuContraire" wrote:


Some of the image stabilizers on digital cameras are pretty good.

Here is a 12x zoom shot of a boid shot with a Panasonic FZ10 hand held.


Nice Shot. Curious, although it looks like the Morning Doves we get
around here it's Brown and ours are Grey. Any idea what kind of Dove it is?

(You need about a half dozen of them boids to have a meal though...)

Not to mention, it takes more Lead to bring them down than you get in
Meat!

Crazy Ed

Edward Erbeck wrote:

"Grumpy AuContraire" wrote:


Some of the image stabilizers on digital cameras are pretty good.

Here is a 12x zoom shot of a boid shot with a Panasonic FZ10 hand held.



Nice Shot. Curious, although it looks like the Morning Doves we get
around here it's Brown and ours are Grey. Any idea what kind of Dove it is?


Best that I can say is that it's a boid w' wings. It flew away soon
after I took the pix.


(You need about a half dozen of them boids to have a meal though...)


Not to mention, it takes more Lead to bring them down than you get in
Meat!

Yep, Cornish Game Hens are a much better choice. Plus you can get 'em
ready to eat at a local eatery...

JT

BubblyBabs wrote:

Some of the image stabilizers on digital cameras are pretty good.

Here is a 12x zoom shot of a boid shot with a Panasonic FZ10 hand held.

JT

(You need about a half dozen of them boids to have a meal though...)


Very nice detail...
Babs




Thanks. The pic is cropped as the original file was way to big to post.

JT

Dave Moorman wrote:

In article
,
Grumpy AuContraire wrote:

Very nice, Grumpy.


Thank you Dave.

JT

Well, yes... I did use PhotShop to crop the original raw pic to reduce
file size. Nothing else was done but some degradation occurs to JPG
files each time it is "saved."

JT



G wrote:

OMG!
It's a Dinosaur!
I bet this was photoshoped!
Dinosaurs went extinct. Never forget!...

"Grumpy AuContraire" wrote in message
...


jim wilson wrote:

"Dave Moorman" wrote in message
]...


In article MY1Mi.31054$x%6.30938@pd7urf2no,
"jim wilson" wrote:



"Dave Moorman" wrote in message
]...


In article
,
Grumpy AuContraire wrote:



The F16 rule is ASA speed equal shutter speed @ F16 in bright
daylight.
Experience dictates variables from that point. Cloud cuts off the sun,
drop to F8 etc.

Is the other part of that rule of thumb that you set the exposure time
for 1/the lens length? I.e., if you're using a 75mm lens, set the
exposure time 1/75 (or as close as you can get).

Sorry I never heard that one-the focal length by itself has nothing to
do
with exposure, only the lens aperature. F16 on any lens passes the same
amount of light.
jim

Yes, but no. F/16 with the shutter open for 1/50th of a second passes
five times the light of F/16 with shutter open for 1/250th of a second.
If you're going to avoid over- or under-exposure, you have to set both
the aperture and the exposure time to the right settings.

Dave

True, of course. I spoke only of the amount of light passed by the lens
aperature without reference to how long that light is allowed to hit the
film or sensor. Both settings, as you say, make up "exposure". If the
correct exposure for a photo is 1/125 at F16, it doesn't matter whether
the
lens is 50 mm or 1000 mm, set both to F16 and the exposure is correct-but
don't hand hold the 1000 mm lens at that slow a speed. 8)
jim



Some of the image stabilizers on digital cameras are pretty good.

Here is a 12x zoom shot of a boid shot with a Panasonic FZ10 hand held.

JT

(You need about a half dozen of them boids to have a meal though...)